22re Adjustable Cam Gear Bolts Hit Fule Pump

This is a "how-to" timing chugalug replacement guide intended to be used by various skill level owners/mechanics. I volition explicate the options for the service, options for parts, and what I think is the all-time manner to keep with the service. Delight note this is only a guide and not a guarantee that yous won't mess something up. If you don't feel comfortable doing the service have it to someone else, don't blame me if you mess something up! There I said it! Let'south kickoff off with the parts you will demand:
The prices shown reflect MSRP as of 6/29/11, generally online parts retailers offering them at 20-25% beneath list price

Timing Belt ...................5142579AA - $209
Tensioner Caster ..............5142798AA - $126
Idler pulley (2 required) .....5142573AA - $62.75
Timing cover gasket ...........5066921AA - $eighteen.75
H2o pump ....................5142985AA - $267
Water pump O ring .............5159019AA - $half-dozen.25
Water pump gasket ...............4864575 - $3.60
Thermostat ....................5142601AA - $146
Thermostat gasket .............5066806AA - $2.85
Other: Zerex G-05 coolant, virtually 1.three gallons lost during the procedure. Serpentine belt. Serpentine belt tensioner. Fan clutch. Alternator/decoupler. JB weld(for intercooler leaks).

In that location are aftermarket alternatives available. Gates has a proficient quality timing belt that volition price y'all virtually $85 online. Crown auto makes a timing chugalug tensioner and idlers. Amazon and Rockauto both take the gates timing belt. IDparts.com also now carries various parts for the CRD including a kit for the timing belt service:
http://www.idparts.com/catalog/

In that location have been TWO reported failures of a crown h2o pump soon after install, one of which had a slipped belt that then did internal damage to the engine, specifically the rockers. (The rockers are designed to fail instead of the valves bending, but replacing the rockers typically runs about $800 for the parts alone) At that place has been another reported machining defect of a crown pump where information technology would not bolt to the block.

The crown pump costs well-nigh $115 online from, the OEM pump costs about $200 online or with a shop discount(prices reverberate April of 2012).

I DO Non RECOMMEND THE CROWN WATER PUMP.

Delight see this thread for details on the crown water pump failure:
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=five&t=66469

There are iii levels of service for the 100k timing chugalug, each one will supervene upon the near critical component, the timing chugalug, but if you are strapped for greenbacks a cheaper service is more of import than waiting. If you do the labor yourself and but supercede the timing belt you lot can get away with the replacement for ~$100. If your belt slips or breaks its a minimum of $800 in new rockers.....plus all the other costs you are going to incur. You should non put off doing the belt over a matter of a few hundred dollars. It is amend to only replace the belt than to do nothing at all!

That being said, hither are the 3 levels of service you can do, and anything in between, that reflect different levels of cost.

Level 1 is the cheapest, if you are strapped for greenbacks and just demand to get the chugalug done there is no shame in doing just the belt, people accept rolled the dice and held off on doing the chugalug and then afterwards regretted it. Fifty-fifty a total Level 3 service is cheaper than a cleaved or slipped belt.
Level Two is a reasonable service for 100k, if you lot do a level Two service at 100k I would recommend a Level Iii service at 200k. The level two service I leave up to the client to determine, generally I recommend a level Ii service at the minimum if you are paying someone to do the service. If you are doing it yourself and have the ability to dig dorsum into the Jeep someday in the future you may wish to save yourself a trivial money and non do the h2o pump at this signal, but instead practise the water pump at 200k. Just note that the water pump replacement(Level Three) is nearly an hours more worth of work than just the timing belt(Level Ii).
Level Three is probably the "best" in terms of a full service, but will also cost the about. If y'all are paying someone to do the chore I would recommend spending the extra $200 online for an OEM h2o pump. You will pay more in labor for the whole chore than y'all will for the OEM h2o pump, if your coolant has never been inverse, or is questionable, its somewhat more than probable that you will have water pump trouble. Of course this is not ever the case, I had a customer that had taken meticulous intendance of his CRD, regular coolant changes, non abused, etc, he decided not to do the h2o pump at the fourth dimension we did his belt. About 5k miles after the belt modify his water pump started leaking. The same calendar week his water pump started leaking another owner reported that his brand new Crown brand water pump which had just been installed also started leaking. Therefor based off of those two cases I think the best pick is to supercede the pump with a new OEM unit of measurement ordered online ~$200. I would like to annotation that on my personal vehicle and several others I have not replaced the water pump and they are just fine, point existence, it can be hit or miss, simply the best case is probably to replace the pump with an OEM unit. Generally I leave this decision upwardly to the customer, but hash out the claim of each arroyo with them.

Misc items: At that place are as well some misc things that you may wish to do while performing the service, there are replacement dust seals for the rear TB comprehend, I don't think these are necessary at all. If this concerns you its far cheaper merely to employ a little RTV on the rear cover earlier installing information technology back onto the block.

The serpentine tensioner can sometimes get bad, if your alternator decoupler is failing. If the tensioner is on its way out I would recommend you replace during the TB service, information technology has to come up off anyway so its a good time to toss on a new one.

Likewise if your serpentine belt is older it has to come off anyway and then its a good time to throw on a new one, and information technology volition never be easier. If your alternator decoupler is on its way out this is as well a good time to supplant information technology. The alternator needs to come up off to install the intake cam locking pin, so its very like shooting fish in a barrel to install a new one then(autozone has a reasonably priced rebuilt alternator that comes with a new decoupler).

This is also an excellent fourth dimension to replace your mechanical fan clutch with a new one. At 100k my cooling fan clutch merely wasn't working like information technology should, I was driving up hills on the interstate in moderately warm weather where my temperature would climb steadily to the iii/four mark where in years past it had not done that. Replacing the fan clutch solved that problem. Plus, its off already so its easy to install a new one.

If your thermostat is questionable or has never been replaced this may exist a good fourth dimension to do that as well. Many OEM thermostats have failed before 100k, making the vehicle take forever to warm up or it never reaching full operating temp.....which can impale your fuel economic system.

A annotation on coolant: You will loose virtually ane-1.v gallons during the procedure. Buy ane gallon, add together information technology, and make the 2d fillup all water(something like a lxx/xxx mix), or buy two gallons and all coolant and go on a piddling extra effectually. I like this option more, if you ever need to add coolant in the time to come you tin just add the rest of the coolant y'all have, and and then afterwards add h2o up to two gallons without worrying virtually keeping adequate freeze and corrosion protection.

Overall procedure:

These are the basic steps to follow, I will discuss the details beneath.
1. Remove stuff in the fashion(fan shroud, radiator, whatsoever it takes)
two. Remove mechanical Fan.
3. Remove Serpentine Belt.
4. Remove Mechanical Fan pulley/mount.
5. Remove Serpentine Belt Auto tensioner.
half dozen. Remove crank pulley.
seven. Remove front end cover.
8. Install cam lock pins/crank lock pin/cam locking tool.
9. Add alignment marks on the crank, injection pump, and cam gears for safeties sake and to insure the CP3 injection pump stays timed correctly.
10. Loosen TB belt pulley tensioner commodities.
11. Use tensioner tool to back the tension off of the belt.
12. Remove Chugalug.

xiii: skip if not doing h2o pump
13a. Remove cam gears
Caution: Simply practise this with cam locking pins installed and gear holder in place. The torque required for the cam gear bolts can pause the locking pins!)
xiiib. Remove rear encompass.
13c. Remove mucilaginous heater.
13d. Remove water pump front half.
13e. Install water pump front half.
13f. Install sticky heater.
13g. Install rear encompass.
13h. Install cam gears
CAUTION: Only do this with the cam locking pins installed and gear holder in place. The torque required for the cam gear bolts can intermission the locking pins!

fourteen. Install new belt.
15. Reverse of removal.

The design of the fan shroud, fan clutch, and AC lines makes this task just all a bit harder to do, but not impossible. In general this is the breakup of how I do it.

Forepart end associates removal procedure:

1. Remove grill.
2. Remove bumper.
3. Remove header panel.
4. Remove upper radiator support.
5. Remove electric cooling fan.
6. Remove all bolts belongings the Air-conditioning condenser to the intercooler. The intercooler to the body, and the fan shroud to the radiator.
7. Remove fan shroud: Pull radiator, intercooler, and Air conditioning condenser forward, skid fan shroud up(this is kinda tight and hard to do, and so it volition take some practice to become things to goto the correct place and slide out. )
eight. Remove intercooler(likewise a bit tricky).
nine. Remove radiator.
10. Remove fan clutch.
11. Remove Serpentine belt, fan idler, crank pulley, PS pump pulley, and serpentine chugalug tensioner.
12. Keep with timing belt job.

Now that being said here is the nitty gritty, the stuff y'all need to know to become it done, the above steps arrive seem pretty piece of cake, merely its not, and the devil is in the details, its the piddling tips and tricks that arrive easy or hard. Skip down a little bit if your already torn down to the point of the timing chugalug, the first part of this document deals with how to get the front end apart and then you can get to the timing belt.

(Note: pictures for this section are not however complete)
one. Remove Grill:
The grill comes off very easy, along the top of the grill there are plastic clips that hold information technology to the header panel, pull upwardly and and so forwards on them and you volition see it get-go to come off. Work your way along the grill until all of them and off and it volition but pull out.

2. Remove bumper.
With the grill off you will meet two 10mm bolts, one on each side past the turn signal. Remove them. Go underneath and look for two 10mm bolts pointed vertically that attach to the lower radiator support, remove them. At that place is a plastic push retainer that holds the front bumper to the plastic splash shield on the right and left splash shields, remove it from below. In each fenderwell there are 2 plastic reusable rivets that concur the splash shield to the bumper encompass. Pull out on the heart post then you tin can pull the whole fastener out, salvage all these parts for reuse. There is a plastic tab that goes from the fender flare to the bumper comprehend, you will simply have to play with this to become it to come up out while you lot remove the bumper embrace. With the bumper embrace dropped downwardly there will exist ii wiring plugs to disconnect for the light attached to the trunk. Slide the red tab back and so button downwards on the retainer, the plug will so pull apart. Prepare bumper assembly aside.

3. Remove header console.
There will be three x mm bolts on either side of the radiator support past the fender, remove all of these. Remove the plastic fasteners holding the plastic air shields to the header panel. The header panel will now come forward, complete with lights attached. By the drivers side fender you will come across the headlight harness plug, slide the red tab over and then squeeze the plastic clip, it will then pull apart. Set complete header panels aside.

4. Remove upper radiator support.
In step 3 you removed 4 of the bolts that hold the upper radiator back up in place, remove the last two 10mm bolts located on the bumper support in the middle just in front of the electric fan. Pull the radiator back up off paying attending to the washer bottle cap sliding off of the fill neck. Let the radiator back up dangle out of the way down by the drivers forepart tire.

v. Remove electric cooling fan.
Here you can see the 2 bolts holding the electric cooling fan to the intercooler on the drivers side. Remove them. Remove the two upper bolts also circled.

Here you lot can see the single bolt on the passenger side, remove it and the slide the fan upward. Disconnect the electric plug, slide the red tab over and squeeze the retainer, pull apart. Set up the fan aside. Remove the ii upper bolts too circled.

six. Remove all bolts holding the AC condenser to the intercooler
If yous have not removed all of the circled bolts in the stride above practise so now. Remove the upper fan shroud bolts, 1 10mm on each side.

There are two bolts that concord the IC to the radiator on the top, hither you can see one of them on the far left of the prototype. There is another on the drivers side in the analogous location, remove them.

vii. Remove fan shroud:
Pull the ac condenser upwardly and then forrad, then pull the radiator forward, if you lot have not done and so yet remove the upper radiator hose. With the radiator/IC/condenser pulled forward carefully pull the fan shroud out. Information technology's tight just it can be done.

viii. Remove intercooler
The intercooler volition slide up and and so come up. It will take some work to clear both the radiator and condenser, I often terminate up rotating the Air conditioning condenser counter clockwise pivoting at most the inlet until it is nearly upside down, and so pulling the inlet tube out, yous can figure out what works for you. Be careful that the metallic foursquare nuts don't autumn out of the intercooler or radiator while removing.
ix. Remove radiator
Put a bucket under the drain cock then open information technology, go get tiffin or a snack while you let it bleed. Remove lower radiator hose, pull the radiator out.

10. Remove fan clutch.
This is the fun part, but now with all this stuff out of the way its not too hard. To remove it you volition need a big cresent wrench, or the correct size wrench(I call back information technology might exist 36mm only don't quote me on that). Have a 13mm shallow socket(6 point preferable) and place in on i of the bolts that holds the fan idler to the cake. This photograph illustrates where you want to identify the socket:

With 1 finger hold the socket in place, and with your other hand operate the wrench to get the fan nut off, information technology may be very tight. The point of the socket is to keep the pulley from spinning.

11. Remove Serpentine chugalug, fan idler, crank pulley, PS pump pulley, and serpentine belt tensioner.
First take the tension off of the chugalug, I use a 15mm wrench to utilize leverage and remove the tension, and then with the tension off I slip the chugalug off of the idler below the alternator, and then I pull the belt off at the alternator, then I can release tension, remove the belt and ready the chugalug bated.

Remove both serpentine belt idlers, Caution! they are both reverse thread, turn Clockwise to loosen! Fix bated. Remove the fan idler, yous will need to apply the access hole to go to the bolt you lot put the socket on in the higher up step, set up the fan idler aside. Remove the PS pulley(3x10mm bolts). Remove the serpentine belt tensioner, set bated. Remove the creepo caster(4x10mm bolts), set side(crank nut does not need to come off). With all this removed nosotros can go on to the timing belt job.

Timing belt procedure:

1. Remove front embrace.
2. Install cam lock pins/crank lock pin/cam locking tool.
3. Add together alignment marks on the creepo, injection pump, and cam gears for safeties sake and to insure the CP3 injection pump stays timed correctly.
four. Loosen TB belt caster tensioner bolt.
five. Utilize tensioner tool to back the tension off of the belt.
half dozen. Remove Belt.

7: skip if non doing water pump
viia. Remove cam gears
Circumspection: Merely do this with cam locking pins installed and gear holder in place. The torque required for the cam gear bolts can break the locking pins!)
7b. Remove rear cover.
7c. Remove glutinous heater.
7d. Remove water pump front half.
viieastward. Install water pump front one-half.
7f. Install sticky heater.
seveng. Install rear embrace.
7h. Install cam gears
Circumspection: But practice this with the cam locking pins installed and gear holder in place. The torque required for the cam gear bolts tin pause the locking pins!

eight. Install new belt.
nine. Tension belt and lock tensioner.

1. Remove front encompass.
17x7mm concord the front end cover on. Remove them and then the cover will just pull off. Set aside.

2. Install cam lock pins/crank lock pivot/cam locking tool.
NOTE: If you are non doing the h2o pump the cam gear holder tool is sufficient to hold the gears in place, and the cam pins are really not needed in that instance.
The cam lock pins are labeled with an "I" and an "E" for intake and exhaust respectively. They install at 90° aTDC, but they can also install at 270° aTDC. To install the intake pin you volition demand to remove the alternator. To install the exhaust locking pin it is helpful to remove the 10mm bolt holding a water hose in place to gain clearance. The plugs that need to be removed to install the locking pins are a 6mm hex. The crank locking pin installs into a small pigsty on the block to a higher place the oil filter. By and large the pigsty is muddied and rusty and so the mill tool does not like to thread in. I recommend just using a similarly sized drill flake on the cake/flywheel pigsty. Start by removing the plug for the intake, use something like a smaller screw commuter to feel for the cam locking pivot hole while you turn the crank, when y'all feel the hole try installing the locking pin, plow the crank back and along until the locking pin installs easily. Then check and encounter with the drill bit if it can exist inserted into the flywheel, if it bottoms out very shortly you are probably 180* degrees off(IE you are at 270° aTDC and demand to exist at 90° aTDC), remove the pin, turn 180 degrees and echo. Once you get the flywheel pivot/drill bit through install the other locking pins fully and put the gear locking tool in place.

This is the Intake cam locking tool: (Miller 1052)

This is the Exhaust cam locking tool: (Miller 1052)

This is the crank locking tool: (Miller 1089)

This is the cam gear locking tool: (Miller 1085)

In the center of this image is where the 6mm plug is that needs to be removed to install the intake locking pivot:

This is where the exhaust cam locking pin tool needs to exist installed:

Hither you can see the intake tool installed(and the rear cover off, simply don't pull that encompass notwithstanding!)

This is where the flywheel locking pin tool should be installed:

iii. Add alignment marks
Yous should add together alignment marks on the crank caster, cam pulleys, and injection pump. No demand to mark the water pump, it isn't timed at all.
Cam gear alignment marks:

Injection pump, and crank alignment marks:

I by and large put several marks on the crank, including the teeth, as safeties.

iv. Loosen TB belt pulley tensioner bolt.
With everything marked, with the locking pins in place, and the cam gear tool in identify, loosen the 10mm bolt on the timing belt tensioner, and so use the tensioner tool to back the tension off the belt. If you were not at 90° aTDC so the crank might turn a little, don't worry, this is why you marked information technology. Just make sure your marks line up when you become the belt on. After loosening the tensioner, slide the belt off, remove the tensioner.
Tensioner:

This is the tool for adjusting the TB tensioner: (miller 9660)

7a. Remove cam gears
With all the pins in place and the cam gear locking tool in place(make sure the knobs are screwed in tight) remove the bolts that hold the cam gears on, 17mm. With the bolts removed the cam gears will only pull off. Set aside.

CAUTION: But do this with cam locking pins installed and gear holder in place. The torque required for the cam gear bolts tin interruption the locking pins!)

7b. Remove rear encompass.
Removing the timing belt idlers, CAUTION: the timing belt idlers have reverse threads! Turn them clockwise to loosen. The rear cover has 6 small bolts and 3 larger ones noted in these ii pictures(one is located behind the cover and also holds downwardly a water pipage).

7c. Remove viscous heater.
Two bolts, a couple of heater hoses, and an electrical plug. No photo even so.

7d. Remove water pump front half.
5 bolts, be mindful that in that location are unlike length bolts, simply its obvious where they goto and come from.
Water pump front end half removed(not former o-ring nevertheless in place, remove and and so make clean surface):

Go alee and remove the new forepart half. Make sure the oring is properly seated in the groove on the new front end half. Make sure the onetime h2o pump oring is removed from the rear one-half.

New elevation, old bottom:

7e. Install water pump front half.
New pump with oring installed(make sure the new Oring is properly seated, and and so lightly lube it with grease, make sure the one-time seating surface is clean)
New front on onetime rear:
(Much much less piece of work this manner than trying to use the new rear)

7f. Install gluey heater.
7g. Install rear cover.
7h. Install cam gears
CAUTION: Simply do this with the cam locking pins installed and gear holder in identify. The torque required for the cam gear bolts can break the locking pins!

8. Install new belt.
Reinstall idlers, reinstall belt tensioner(simply don't tighten it yet.) For the Belt generally I outset at the cam gears, and then work my way around downwardly past the IP and and so down to the crank. Make sure that there is not any slack between the ii cam gears, if y'all tin can move the belt up and down whatever it means you lot have an extra tooth betwixt the two gears. Install the belt then at that place is no slack betwixt the gears. It is ofttimes best to start at the peak and slide the chugalug onto the gears keeping it tight, don't attempt and get it over i gear start and so the 2nd gear next. Slide it over both at the aforementioned time. After this is washed and to keep the belt from popping off I generally use something every bit a wedge to proceed the belt from popping off of the cam gears. Screwdrivers are fine, but don't shove in a huge one and damage the chugalug. The nozzle from an RTV tube worked very nicely, I'm sure you lot take something around y'all can use.
The Belt should be tight like this between the gears, if there is any play it has an actress molar betwixt the gears:

Now quite often you volition get into a case where y'all have something that looks like this:

What happens is that you do non have enough slack to slide over the tensioner, and you have likewise much slack between the crank and the injection pump, still y'all cannot get the belt to catch a tooth farther over than information technology has on the crank. What you want to exercise is turn the crank CCW, and so become the chugalug to catch onto a tooth on the creepo, then hold the belt onto the crank, and plow it dorsum CW. If you exercise it right you will take a tight belt between the injection pump and the creepo, and so barely enough slack to get the belt over the tensioner, make sure your crank timing marks still lineup. if you are off by a tooth it will be obvious, repeat the process until you have no slack between the IP and the crank, and your creepo is correctly aligned.
Cheque out this video on youtube to see what I mean:
VIDEO LINK Here

nine. Tension belt and lock tensioner.
Utilise the tensioner tool to tension the chugalug where the tensioner mark aligns, so screw in the 10mm bolt tight. Double check that all the timing marks lineup, remove all locking pins, cam gear holder, and so turn information technology over by mitt. Verify that all the marks still lineup after a couple of rotations. If they do, do a test startup. If everything sounds good put it dorsum together.

This is the serpentine chugalug routing in case yous're similar me and forgot the instant you took it off:

Lets accept a look at a used Timing Belt with 111k on it:
Surface vesture:

Underside looks meliorate, merely still is covered by the fine carmine dust that comes off the belt equally is bends and flexes.

This is the new belt in comparing to the erstwhile, much less habiliment and it looks much better.

Pressure level testing the intercooler:
With one hand over the outlet and my mouth firmly sealed to the inlet(No Jokes Please) I blew hard and could feel and hear some leakage, after making sure my mouth and hand seals where good I uses the old lather suds trick to observe a location that was leaking.

And then we got a footling JB weld, mixed it up, and fabricated it menstruation into the area in question(the top near tube on the inlet/hot side of the intercooler).

Problem solved! No more leaks from that location. During tear downwardly at that place was a good buildup of oil on the IC near the leak, most probable oil from the intake pathway existence blow out the small leak(right past the inlet) and covering the IC with a nasty oil buildup. If yous see the same matter happening and so you may exist having a small-scale IC leak like I was.

Do non loose these:

At that place are a bunch of these located all in the radiator and the IC. They are small threaded inserts that simply slide in to a plastic holder on the radiator or IC and let other things like the fan shroud and Ac condenser bolt to them. I lost several and had to find some basics that would piece of work. I didn't even realize these could come out until I went to reassemble everything and institute out I was missing them!

Instance of one non missing:

And one thats missing:

This was something I noted upon reinstall of every, the AC line had been hitting the upper radiator back up, I bent the lip of the radiator support a bit and too bent the line down a bit, lots of clearance now!

This is the turbo inlet hose. When I was putting everything back together I institute out that the lower office where it clamps to the turbo inlet had degraded and ripped apart. I doubtable it had been this manner a while and only at present I had discovered it. It appears that this volition be a 100% failure item on most CRDs, mine has been running the EHM and ORM for the past threescore-70k miles(since nearly 40k-50k on the odometer) and I however had this failure. The stock CCV system volition increase this failure charge per unit, however another reason to run the EHM and ORM.